October 6, 2015
Why are we so obsessed about surf contests as surf fans? What’s so attractive about seeing people paddling in the water while we are at the beach wishing we could be surfing that same wave in that exact same way? Why are we across the world, eyes fixed on the computer with our 5th espresso shots only to watch a little bit more about the contest? It seems like a weird obsession that isn’t even healthy.
Well, we watch it and wish we were in the water because it will never happen – we don’t have that talent, unfortunately. We are good, but we can’t do what they do. Surfing may seem like a random sport for some, but it isn’t as easy as it seems. Surfing is probably one of the hardest sport to learn, harder than skiing or snowboarding. This is probably why parents’ home school their kids so they can be in the water at the youngest age possible. Learning how the ocean works is part of the sport and it isn’t something anyone is able to. It takes time. You need to treat the sea with respect if you want the swells to come back at you. Some people even think it’s a crazy sport. ‘’Why would you go in the ocean when it’s freezing cold and dangerous? You know, there are sharks, right?’’. That’s the only thing people think about once they go at sea, when in fact, your chances are way higher to get hit by a car when you are crossing the road of your house. Being attacked by a shark like Mick Fanning doesn’t happen often and (hopefully) won’t happen again, but being born as a pro surfer for your destiny plan doesn’t happen often neither. You are the lucky one, getting to surf wonderful places around the world, but this isn’t all about beers and fun time. You need to stop that voice inside your head that tells you it’s dangerous, you need to go in the freezing snow to catch some waves, you need to be aware of your surroundings and you need to focus on your goals and stop drinking that beer. Surfing is more than a sport, it’s an art. Have you ever seen someone dance so beautifully on the water than surfers? I haven’t.
The Quicksilver Pro France started today and we are excited to watch it with our espresso shot. The year I was born in, Rob Machado won at the Rip Curl Pro Landes. It was the second year of the contest in France, while the first year the Brazilian Flavio Padaratz won against Kelly Slater. It has been a while, isn’t? It started 20 years ago and until these days, nature still offers us perfect swells so surfers can compete to get the best scores. Will John John Florence keep his 2014 title and win again this year? Will the weather be good while they announce lots of wind and small waves? Will the contest be on standby due to bad surf condition, forcing surfers to explore the French culture with the help of red wine? Will Dane Reynold win the contest (he has a wildcard, if you weren’t aware of it) and donate all his prize money to charity, as announced via Instagram?
We simply need to wait and see it. If there is something we have to remember about that surf location though is that it’s really challenging and change quickly, surfers need to be able to adapt themselves easily while being patient with waves.
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